Robin Lee Graham on the Latest Teen Circumnavs

By Michael E. Petrie August 2010 SAIL Magazine

In July 1965, at the tender age of 16, Robin Lee Graham set out on a 33,000 mile, five year circumnavigation as the youngest solo sailor in the smallest boat: a Bill Lapworth designed 24 foot sloop named Dove. His voyage was famously covered by National Geographic Magazine, spawned two best selling books – Dove and Home Is The Sailor – a children’s book, The Boy Who Sailed Around The World Alone and a 1974 major Hollywood movie, The Dove, which won a Golden Globe Award.

There now appears to be another generation of teenagers trying to set their own records and garner whatever fame may accompany such feats. In 2009, Zac Sunderland became the first person under age 18 to successfully complete a circumnavigation, an achievement that has since been matched by Brit Michael Perham, age 17 and Australian Jessica Watson, age 16. Not to mention, Jordan Romero, at age 13, became the youngest climber to conquer Mt. Everest. But it was the failed attempt to sail the globe by 16 year old Abby Sunderland, Zac Sunderland’s sister, her dismasting in the Indian Ocean in June 2010, and her subsequent rescue by a French fishing boat that seems to be raising considerable controversy: Should parents be allowing their teenage children to tackle such dangerous challenges?

Not surprisingly, the race to be the youngest has sparked enough controversy that the World Sailing Speed Record Council no longer recognizes these age-related records. To get some perspective on the phenomenon, who better to ask than the “teenager” who started it all, Robin Lee Graham? So, I contacted the now 61 year old Robin and his wife, Patti, at their home in Montana.

SAIL: What are your thoughts about this trend of teens climbing mountains and sailing solo around the world?

Graham: In general? How can this be a bad thing? The American spirit of adventure is apparently alive and well. America is a place where anyone of any age can try to capture whatever goal they set for themselves.

SAIL: You sailed around the world as a teen, but now that you’re an adult and have two grown children of your own, and even three grandchildren, do you still think it’s a good idea for someone so young to be subjected to the dangers involved in chasing such goals? Take, for instance, Abby Sunderland who was dismasted in the Indian Ocean and had to be rescued.

Graham: I had a lot of knowledge and experience before I set sail alone around the world. I could navigate, was a competent sailor, and already had a lot of blue water experience cruising with my family. I had the strong desire to do it, and knew I was capable of doing it. From what I’ve read, it sounds like Abby Sunderland has all those same attributes. I’m sorry her voyage was not successful. But storms at sea happen. I doubt her age was the problem. If my kids had that same knowledge and desire, I’d say go ahead, realize your dreams. It’s totally individualistic. One person might be able to do it at age 16, another at 40. A lot of people are never equipped to solo sail. You have to know yourself.

SAIL: But does anyone truly know themself at such a young age?

Graham: Good point, but a parent knows. A parent, a good parent, knows their child better than the child knows themself. Who better to know whether a young person is ready for such responsibility than their parent? Sure, there are bad parents with bad judgement. But a good parent knows their child and knows whether their son or daughter can handle it.

SAIL: Yet, your own mother was against you voyaging solo. In your book you discuss how she actually hired a lawyer to try and stop you from setting sail.

Graham: As a parent myself, I have empathy. But, even though we cruised extensively as a family when I was growing up, my mother was never really a sailor. Sailing was my father’s passion, and mine. Mom never really understood the whole “lure of the sea” thing. So when I wanted to sail around the world, she just didn’t understand. But once I actually was on my way, she became very supportive. I’d call her on a ham radio rig from various ports, and she was always very encouraging. But it’s a parent’s job to worry. My mom is 88 and still worries about me.

SAIL: So, what do you say to those who might claim it is bad parenting to allow a son or daughter to pursue their passion when that passion leads the child into dangerous situations?

Graham: It’s just not cut and dried. Each child is different. Being a good parent means understanding your child. Understanding whether they have a strong enough desire to overcome adversity and whether they have the skills, knowledge and maturity to accomplish their goals.

Reader Comments

Posted Sun Aug22, 2010, 12:23 PM — By Louis Bullard

Robin Lee Graham helped to shape my ambition as a sailor. Not being from a sailing family, I could only watch from the sidelines and dream. I value his insights and opinions and I am glad you had the inspiration to ask him to contribute. I would have difficulty encouraging my daughter to sail around the world (she is 10 years old)at this time, but if she was devoted enough to develop the skills and attitude, I would hope to be open-minded enough to help her realize her dreams. That is a parent's responsibility too.

Posted Thu Sep 9, 2010, 10:04 AM — By Karin Berryman

It's so good to hear from Robin Lee Graham again! He and his wife Patti look extremely well I'm very happy to note. He inspired me to grasp my opportunities for travel with his courageous, but thoroughly prepared, commitment to the ultimate adventure of setting your sails! To sail around the world non-stop for the sake of achieving it at the youngest age though is a pity. Encountering danger in the form of other marine craft, storms, dangerous currents and possibly marine animals is definitely adventurous. Seems a shame to me though that these young sailors missed their opportunity to visit the islands and countries along the way with the wealth of culture and character Robin Lee Graham enjoyed and conveyed to his readers. How much better educated and enriched these junior sailors would be if they could have island tripped, met and mingled!

Posted Sun Sep19, 2010, 12:20 PM — By stan

Always wondered what happened to Robin Graham. Really enjoyed this peice. Well done.

Posted Sun Sep19, 2010, 8:20 PM — By Allison

Robin Lee Graham is one of sailing's greatest living legends and it was wonderful to read about him once again after a long absence. More than 20 years ago an old boyfriend gave me a copy of the book Dove and I fell in love with it. First I think I loved it as a love story. I fantasized about being the girl who flowed her man from port to port all over the world, praying for his safe return to me. A second or third reading got me fantasizing myself to be the actual sailor crossing oceans in a small boat and that's what got me hooked on sailing. Today my husband (not the same guy as the old boyfriend ... I wonder what ever happened to him) and my son and I make up an avid sailing family. All because of Robin's book. Thank you Robin Lee Graham. And thank you Sail magazine for reviving this memory of a most inspirational young sailor.

Posted Tue Sep21, 2010, 11:11 PM — By Paul the landlubber

This is an excellent article and interview. Michael Petrie delved deeper into the story behind the story that mainstream media missed. It beckons to an instinct to explore the stuff we are made of and when people did things more for internal discovery as opposed to outer fame and fortune. Petrie really touches on stuff that goes beyond the world of sailing.

Posted Mon Sep27, 2010, 7:09 PM — By Laura Alger

25 years ago my son read Robin Lee Graham's children's book The Boy Who Sailed Around The World Alone and it was one of his favorites. Mine too. So I really enjoyed reading this article about Robin Graham and knowing that he is still alive and well.

Posted Thu Sep30, 2010, 4:23 PM — By Lon

For readers like me who devoured Robin's books (yup, both of 'em) back in the day, this is one of those rare pieces with perfect timing; newsworthy and current as to the context of the piece (the 'Abby' controversy), interesting to see that Robin is alive and well as it touches on being a 'where is he now' piece (although far too briefly, Id like to know a bit more), and his advice to parents, and to adventure seekers of all ages; timeless.

Posted Sun Dec 5, 2010, 8:15 AM — By Frederick Corey

I, too, am thrilled to hear of Robin and Patti and that they're doing well. I'm now 55 and preparing my boat for Pitcairn sailing. As a youngster, I flunked out of college, made my way to St. Thomas, lived on a boat and found Robin's DOVE nearby. It was a mess! 'Course I just have a Caliber 28, but I'm making it ocean-worthy and will see the same sunsets and dive the same reefs as the fatcat crowd. My thanks to Robin Lee, Herb Payson, Capt. Fatty, Fritz Seyfarth and Dave and Jaja, for inspiration. My dream is finally coming true and I'll sail as far as my boat will take me...

Posted Thu Dec23, 2010, 4:52 PM — By Sam Merrifield

Robin Lee Graham was my inspiration - I followed his adventure in National Geographic; and then made the decision - if he could do it, so could I. Problem was: I was then in my mid 30's with 6 children! Well, to make a long story short, 6 years later we took a 14 month sabbatical:my reluctant wife, 6 children (ages 6 - 19) and I sailed freely (confined to the western hemisphere) aboard our steel, 2-masted schooner. It was an exciting, adventurous, and exhilarating experience - one in which the entire family reminisces on today. Like Robin, we returned to the land (but we have deep memories).

Posted Wed Dec29, 2010, 6:21 PM — By Martin

I've probably read Dove a dozen times from cover to cover (also read Home Is The Sailor a couple of times) and saw the movie The Dove at least a dozen times. In my late teens, I'd take my dates to see that movie - and if they did not show proper excitement for sailing & cruising to distant lands, that would be our last date. If they passed the movie test, I'd give them a copy of the book to read. Robin Graham was my litmus test for finding the right girl/woman. Often the best made plans do not work the way intended ... I married a seasick landlubber who only tolerates sailing. Oh well ... love conquers all. Luckily,our kids always enjoyed sailing our family boat, so all was not lost. LOL. Loved reading about Robin Lee Graham again after such a way too looongg absence!!

Posted Sat Mar12, 2011, 9:59 PM — By (none)

I guess someone could come up with a video game called Teen Solo Circumnavigation. But then kids already get criticized enough for sitting around the house doing nothing.

Posted Wed Mar23, 2011, 8:29 PM — By Dr. G

Great writing ... I followed Robins adventures in National Geographic at the time. Being just three months younger I dreamed it was me! Just five years after his departure from the Ala Wai in Honolulu I was living aboard my own boat in the Ala Wai and though I never sailed beyond Hawaii I sailed thousands of miles amoung the islands for over twenty years. Thanks Robin and Patti ... I wouldn't have lived that life without your inspiration ... Wonderful to know your doing well.. Peace, and God Bless

Posted Sun Mar27, 2011, 7:27 PM — By (none)John Robirds

(none)Enjoyed the information on Lee Graham. We were childhood playmates while he lived in Baywood Park California. At that time he was sailing a 8ft pram which he would capsize just for fun. I was very saddened when his family move away I lost a great friend. We both love being on the water. I followed his adventures in National Geographic at the time. I went on to serve 30 yrs in the US Navy sailing seas on big aircraft carries. I still dream of sailing on Morro Bay as a young boy with Robin very happy days. Thanks for the memories LEE.

Posted Thu Apr14, 2011, 1:18 PM — By Jack Bunnell

I first read Dove my Jr year in college in 1972 (and of course followed the Nal Geo articles). As a result of the Book, I bought a boat, got married, lived aboard and had three kids, then we moved ashore. We sent my son's book, Robin Lee Graham's children's book The Boy Who Sailed Around The World Alone, to Robin in Montana in 1988, asking for an autograph. He signed it with a nice note and returned it. My son is 27 now and still treasures the book. My son now works in the sailing boat industry and has more ocean miles than I can only dream about. RLG had a great influence on this family.

Posted Mon May23, 2011, 2:27 AM — By (none)
i am 51 years old and still have the original National Geographic my parents had of Robins journey. It inspired me then and still does today. Robin is one amazing person in addition to an amazing sailor. I wish him and his wife well. God bless.

Posted Thu Jun 2, 2011, 11:33 PM — By Burton Hughes
I'm 53 years old and was living in a rural part of the Big Island of Hawaii (South Point) when Robin was half way around the world in his circumnavigation. Without electricity, we spent a lot of time reading -- and following Robin's adventure in National Geographic. After returning to the mainland my parents sold the family home and moved my twin sister and me onto a 30 ft sloop during our high school years. I have always loved the sea and after three children and thirty five years of marriage I've finally made my way home-- just recently acquiring a 29 foot sloop. My grown son and I are planning our transpacific trip back to the islands with the inspiration of RLG, the Dove, and the Lord. The name of my boat...Manuku. Hawaiian for Dove. God bless you Robin and Patti! Shalom.

Posted Mon Jul25, 2011, 11:04 PM — By Jeffrey C Cox
So good to catch up with how Robin and Patti are today. I was building my Herreschoff H28 yacht in 1975-77 and Robin's book was my inspiration. Then I saw the film and named my yacht "Summer Wind" after the song "Sail the Summer Winds". Borrowed the Nat Geo mags to read the stories. For the last five years I searched many secondhand bookstores to find those three editions, finally finding two of them in an antique store, then the last one was just sitting on the top of a pile of Nat Geos in another antique shop. I was elated to get them again. Sold Summer Wind in '85 after marrying a non-sailor! Best of luck to Robin and Patti. Jeff C Cox Hastings Australia.

Posted Thu Aug11, 2011, 2:08 PM — By Tim Pattison

I came to the Dove story by way of the movie in the mid 70's, drawn by the adventure, the wide world, the pretty girl, the testing of the sea. I have read the book and have seen the movie many times since (love the cheesy 70's vibe!)and sail a 14 foot West Wight Potter pocket cruiser. I'm leaving tomorrow for a solo circumnavigation... of Washington's San Juan Islands. Thanks all for the ongoing story! Pattison, Bellingham, Washington

Posted Thu Aug 18,2011,10:10AM -- By Stan the Man

How totally refreshing to read this! While many of this generation spent their youth on drug-induced psychedelic trips to nowhere, frolicking in free love, getting wasted at rock concerts, contemplating their navels looking for the meaning of life, and likely have only fractured memories of it all ... THIS baby boomer was on a REAL trip to REAL and exciting places, found TRUE LOVE rather than just meaningless free love, explored many other cultures around the globe who give real meaning to life, listened to the natural concerts of whales & the ocean, and has a world of wondrous memories recorded forever in his book. Baby boomers are a adventurous generation, I only wish more of us had directed those adventures in the more positive direction as did Graham. Really great to read this. Thank you.

Posted Mon Feb 13, 2012, 11:19 AM -- By Megan

Baby Boomers had the Beatles and Rolling Stones. And those of us who are sailors, who love the sea and thrive on adventure, had Robin Lee Graham. To us, RLG was as huge as those rock performers. After so many years out of the world spotlight, I am so very happy to read this update, to know he is alive and well (I'd heard some years back that he'd died in a motorcycle accident), to know that he and Patti are still together, and to read his views on this new generation of adventurers. Thanks for this, it was truly enjoyed.

A love-smitten beginner

By Michael Petrie

When you’re an intelligent, successful, physically fit, forty-something woman with a busy medical practice who pursues life experiences with real fervor, where do you turn for new challenges?

My friend, Dr. Helen Tam, 47, from Irvine, California, has pursued her newest interest—sailing—with all the passion of a love-smitten teenager. In the span of a single year she has crewed in races on both coasts, has become a regular crewmember aboard a competitive Melges 32, completed nearly every Coast Guard Auxiliary class available, is studying to obtain her Captain’s License, and has purchased her own boat. She's a one-woman force to be reckoned with.

On a recent warm January day in Southern California, we were out on her Ranger 22, Fish Queen, and I asked her how she came to love the sport of sailing. The interview was hit and miss, as Helen was focused on every nuance of the boat; she kept leaping into action trimming sails, adjusting this-and-that, and only answering my queries when idle.

What turned you on to sailing in the first place?

Hmm. Mid-life crisis? I’m at that stage of life. Looking to add some excitement, and I’ve always loved the ocean.

Was there some pivotal moment when you knew that sailing was just what the doctor ordered? Pardon the pun.

First time out! Sailing a Catalina 25 with my friend in San Diego Bay. Twenty-five knot winds, white caps, water over the rail. I felt thrill and excitement instead of fear.

So it’s the adrenaline rush?

(Laughing) Maybe it’s the feeling of cheating death that makes sailing feel so alive. I did an accidental gybe that first time out and survived. Another time I capsized in a Lido 14 during Santa Ana winds, but was able to right it just as an oncoming ferry was approaching. Don’t misunderstand—I have a healthy respect for the ocean, the dangers involved, and always try to take appropriate precautions, but I love the feeling that I’ve survived adverse conditions.

So, it’s really the challenges that turn you on?

Sure... and so much more. Every time my boat heels and water comes over the rail! Chasing after the tall ships at Dana Point with my little boat and getting caught in the mock cannon battles; flying my spinnaker; crewing and honing my racing skills; winning an all-female race recently at the Naples Yacht Club in Florida. Everything about sailing is such a turn on. But I guess what I truly enjoy most is simply watching sunsets at sea—the sky turning bright orange, wanting it to go on forever, not wanting to return to port, to head for the South Pacific instead.

Is that a goal? To sail the South Pacific?

Absolutely! I’m trying to find a crew position for the next Transpac race to get ocean-crossing experience. My real goal is to cross solo one day.

If you were to sum up your sailing experiences into a one-liner, what would it be?

I cheated death again!

Still Sailing After All These Years

By Michael E. Petrie  SAIL Magazine

Octogenarian John Garau is standing on the deck of his sailboat home in Dana Point, California. His boat, an Ericson 27 that he bought way back in 1978, is in pristine condition, still looking almost new despite the countless nautical miles logged.

"I had a nice, big house in Laguna Beach and this boat here in the harbor that I sailed mostly on weekends. A few years back I decided I didn’t need a big house to knock around in any longer, so I sold the house and moved aboard. It was a good decision. Being around boats keeps me outdoors and young ... well, youngish anyway."

Being a live-aboard, John has become the self-appointed, and widely appreciated, one man security force of this particular dock, keeping a watchful eye on his neighbor’s vessels when the owners are not around. After a lifetime of tramping his way all over the world, most of it via sailboats, it only seems natural that he continues to live out his life right here on the water.

"I grew up around the water, in Laguna Beach," he tells me. "I was a surfer long before the sport became California iconic. I was a lifeguard in Laguna for many years before the war (WW II). I guarded at Avalon (at Santa Catalina Island) after the war for a spell, too. That was back when the great old Hollywood stars would sail their boats out to the island. I knew them all: Errol Flynn aboard his sailboat Sirocco, John Wayne (who had both a power boat and a sailboat, depending upon his mood), Ward Bond and so many others. But it was a classmate of mine back in school who actually introduced me to the sport of sailing. He had a rich daddy who owned a boat – a Rhodes 33 – and crewing on that boat was my first taste of ocean sailing."

Serving as a navigator in the U.S. Army Air Corp during World War II, John learned the skills that would allow him to become a licensed commercial pilot and an excellent blue water sailor. He’s sailed across the Atlantic, raced in the Transpac, sailed a trimaran to Tahiti, cruised the Caribbean Islands and on to Venezuela and Jamaica, Bermuda to Azores, over to Portugal and Spain (then spent 2 years cruising in a VW camper around Europe), cruised New Zealand, spent a year in Australia, sailed to Fiji ... there are few places on the globe where water and land meet that John has not visited.

In the autumn of 1988, already well into his sixties, John signed on as "navigator, cook, and chief bottle washer" aboard a 48' custom C&C racing sloop that sailed from Newport Beach, California to Panama, the Carribean, and on to Europe. "I think one of the wildest rides of my life was on that voyage," he told me. "I remember we were at the north point of Golfo de Tehuantepec in Oaxaca, Mexico, one of the windiest places on earth; windy at least 300 days per year, sometimes 50 to 80 or even 100 knots. We waited a few days for the winds to ease, but they never really did. So, we took off after midnight when the winds were comparatively less, sailing along the coast on the 5 fathom line. Huge waves don’t really have a chance to build there, but you might get sandblasted because you’re sailing really close to shore." John continued telling me about near calamities and some great friendships made along the way on that trip ... then moved on to tales of other voyages, all of them spellbinding and fascinating. I encouraged John to write a book, because there are not enough pages in a single issue of SAIL to handle all the exciting stories he has to tell.

Among John’s favorite cruising spots is Hawaii, where he lived for several years, and can still often be found relaxing at the Hawaii Yacht Club. "I love the Hawaiian culture and people," he says. "One of my good friends was Prince Edward Kawananakoa, a rightful heir to the monarchy in Hawaii, if it were still to exist." In 1997, Kawananakoa died. John attended his funeral. Two years later he began dating the widow of his deceased friend, "Because she’s a great lady and, with Edward gone, she needed looking after." Together they cruised the Gambier Islands, Tuomotus, Easter Island, Cook Islands, Indonesia, and China ... all that while John was in his 70s.

"I felt extremely fit and youthful, until I hit my 80s," he says, shrugging his still broad shoulders and chuckling aloud. "Now it seems like each day without some sort of ailment is a gift." That may be, but John can still be seen sailing out beyond the breakwater, boat heeling nicely into the wind, and looking rather ailment free with a distinctly appreciative smile on his salt-weathered face. To paraphrase an old Paul Simon tune, John is still sailing after all these years!

Muddling Towards Golden Gate
By Michael Petrie

They say you never forget your first time. For me, cruising offshore began onboard Azulo, a 20-year-old, 31-foot Mariner ketch. Three friends—Dave, Karl, and Allen—and I set out to follow the path of 19th-century writer Richard Henry Dana, up the California coast. A motley crew of four young sailors off sailing the high seas!

I kept a journal during that first cruise, and I still have it today. “Until now,” I wrote, “my longest time at sea was a 10-hour sail from Oxnard to Catalina Island. I’ve been longing for a taste of real cruising and decided my first time should be a leisurely port-to-port crawl from Marina del Rey to San Francisco.”

The first leg, to Santa Barbara, was a pleasant motorsail with the Channel Islands to our left and the rugged California coast to our right. But from Santa Barbara northward, the going became substantially more challenging.

We left Santa Barbara at dawn and sailed north toward Point Conception, which has been called the “Cape Horn of the Pacific” because of the heavy northwesterly gales frequently encountered there. If Point Conception was true to form, I’d soon be getting my first taste of heavy-weather sailing.

By 1900 we were definitely in the vicinity of Point Conception. The wind was over 35 knots, and the seas were growing. I crept cautiously out onto the bowsprit to furl the jib, perched over the bow like a figurehead as the boat plowed through the waves. One swell lifted me up, up, up to such a height that it seemed we were pivoting precariously on the boat’s transom like the fishing boat in the movie The Perfect Storm just before those onboard met their doom; another foot and the boat would certainly topple over backward, or so it felt.

The wave suspended me there for a moment, dangling in mid-air and clutching the bowsprit. All at once the boat came free-falling through the air with a crash. I was engulfed by water as the bowsprit stabbed into the ocean like a dart on a dartboard. Without my harness, I would surely have been pitched headlong into the turbulent seas. And this was only the beginning of our bout with Point Conception.

Dave took the helm, and I went below to get as much sleep as possible since it would take all night to round the point. That was a frightening experience. I’d never been seasick, but I felt the first pangs as I made my way around the cabin. Lying down with my eyes closed felt like being on a bad drunk with bed spins.

To take my mind off the bouncing world in which I was entombed, I thought about my girlfriend back home. As I entered that never-never land somewhere between consciousness and unconsciousness, I swore I could detect the sweet smell of her hair. I could see her face. I could hear her angelic voice speaking to me: “Mike.” First it came softly, like part of a fog-filled dream, then sharply: “Mike!” It was Karl shouting my name from the cockpit.

Karl was at the helm, cold and wet and more than ready for me to relieve him. Had I really been asleep for six hours? I sat up and was immediately thrown out of the bunk, crashing into the galley table with an awful thud. The noise awakened Dave, who mumbled, “Hey man, are you all right?” I assured him I was, though I wasn’t sure it was true.

I stumbled around in the dark cabin, doing a sort of dance while trying to pull on my boots and foul-weather gear, when I suddenly realized I was stepping on Allen, who had passed out on the floor in a seasick stupor. Sidestepping him, I climbed out the companionway, hitting my head on the sliding hatch, and got myself to the wheel. We had only the storm jib up and the engine was on.

On deck alone in the black of a moonless night, I felt the boat pitch and plunge. She’d heel far over and waves would crash on us, filling the cockpit nearly to my knees. Salt spray burned my eyes so at times I couldn’t see anything at all. And if I looked away from the compass for only a second, we’d bounce and leap off course, 30 to 40 degrees in a single bound. At one point I found myself heading almost due north instead of due west, then a moment later we’d jump back to the proper heading.

It was tiring and very, very cold. My hands felt as though they were frozen to the wheel, my feet were numb, my cheeks and chin were raw from the wind. I was nauseated by the violent motion of the boat, and I was absolutely loving it! Fulfilling my dream of ocean cruising and learning, first hand, about sailing in heavy weather, I couldn’t have been more thrilled.

As morning came, the fog was so thick that the only evidence of dawn was the gradual lessening of darkness. Veiled daylight was preferable, though, to rockin’ and rollin’ in total darkness. At 0630 I woke Dave for his watch. Relieved, I took off my wet clothes and dove below into a damp sleeping bag. I didn’t open my eyes again for three hours, when we were approaching Port San Luis, a welcome patch of tranquillity where we dropped the hook and spent the rest of the day drying out.

We zoomed into Morro Bay the next day, swept along by the 5-knot current that flows down the channel, and grabbed a mooring. We departed the following morning just as the sun began to rise. Lots of stars and a full moon were still visible in the sky, as were several large sharks in the channel. It was creepy observing those dorsal fins and tails slicing the glassy surface of the water. Yet by noon I was sitting out on the bowsprit, watching more-comforting dolphins swimming and frolicking beneath me.

With Point Sur nearly abeam, we headed almost due north with the reefs shaken out, just screaming along, burying the rail. I was enjoying myself, as if racing some invisible competitor. Heeled over, the wind and spray in our faces…this is what sailing is all about!

As nighttime darkness fell and shipmates went below to rest, I couldn’t help but appreciate how wonderful it was to be alone in the cockpit, the only sound made by the sea against the hull, the moon casting its shadow on the sea. Several hours later, however, that sense of peace gave way to concern that bordered on fear. Just goes to show, you shouldn’t get complacent when you’re out at sea. I noticed something dangling free on the leeward side, revealed by closer inspection to be a lower main shroud. Uh oh! I lashed the dangling shroud to a lifeline and continued on, hoping for the best.

Then, at around 0430, I got lost. I knew that, on our present course, we should be approaching Santa Cruz and I should be seeing land soon. I scanned the horizon in every direction for a light on shore, but saw nothing. By 0500 it was no longer dark, and we were engulfed in a heavy gray fog. The wind and seas had calmed considerably, but in the limited visibility I saw no sign of land.

My concern was increasing; we could be washed ashore if we weren’t careful. Finally, Dave popped his head up through the hatch and asked if I’d seen any lights. I told him that I hadn’t. In short order, he was searching from the foredeck as I stayed at the wheel. Just as he’d dropped the mainsail and I’d started the engine, I spotted a light. “Gawd! Turn around...reverse heading!” Dave shouted. I could tell from the panic in his voice that I’d better be damned quick about it.

With the course change we were now headed due south—exactly the wrong direction. Eventually the fog burned off in the morning sun and we got ourselves back on course, but it was a pretty hairy way to start the day—a day that ended with us anchored for the night at a beautiful and serene spot called Half Moon Bay, where we repaired the rigging.

Not long after leaving Half Moon Bay, we spotted one of the towers of the Golden Gate Bridge. I think it was Allan who saw it first. His face just beamed; he was really excited. Our arrival at San Francisco Bay was, it seemed to us, nothing short of spectacular. Karl proclaimed that sailing into San Francisco is the grandest way to arrive, and the rest of us heartily agreed.

Our little blue-and-white boat, on a deep blue ocean and under a cloudless blue sky, was the only vessel around. We entered the waters of the bay as if we owned it, sailing under the Golden Gate Bridge with sails full and proud. The surrounding green hillsides were beautiful, and we could smell the land. All four of us, I think, viewed the bridge as a sort of finish line for our northward passage. Despite our foibles and outright blunders along the way, we had arrived.

“My first foray into ocean cruising has barely whet my appetite,” I wrote. “My clothes are still wet, and dreams of sailing to Hawaii are already forming.”

Mike Petrie has since crossed the Pacific, cruised the Hawaiian Islands, and explored much of the South Pacific, including Tonga, Samoa and Tahiti. He is a member of the exclusive Ocean Cruising Club which prerequisites members to have completed a minimum of a 1000 mile ocean crossing between landfalls. Currently he sails Autumn Breeze, a Catalina 30, out of Dana Point Harbor, California.